Three counterintuitive ways to holiday in Italy

The Talented Mr Ripley - such cool dudes, I bet they knew when best to pop into town...

Visiting a new place is all about aligning with the rituals that, over centuries, have established themselves in the part of the world that you have chosen for your brief sojourn. You can of course decide to rail against them, to demand the things that you have come to expect at home, but then, have you really travelled? You are on holiday, and in this case in a historic place like rural Umbria, and you'll want to strike the right balance between local and personal agendas. Essentially, it's all about leaving behind the '9 to 5' and embracing the siesta and the split day!

So, without getting too philosophical about it, might I suggest three things that are worth at least considering when forming your daily plan, over the comfort of coffee. Which will be an espresso if you have got into the local vibe, perhaps a Nescafé if you have not!

Get up early

Ok, so it's your holiday, and the last thing that you want to do is to be driven by the clock. Yet, in Umbria, the warmth brings an urgency to the morning, as farmers and businessmen alike try to break the back of the day's work before it becomes just too hot and exhausting. The tractors can be out by 7am, 6am sometimes, and that can occasionally be a bit noisy, especially if you have the windows open. So, why not rise, take in the beauty of the mist, the freshness, the weak morning sun gradually coming into play...and yes, it is early, but it is so much easier to do this when you can relax with a juice or coffee to your side, read a book, or just ponder the day, rather than having to be on that tractor.

Get out of the villa late for sightseeing

This can sound a bit counter-intuitive given point 1 above. But they are actually coming from the same point of view. Consider this. You decide to ignore point 1 (I'm on holiday and I am going to have a lie-in, then a coffee and watch the view, then a lovely breakfast) and that's fine. But what you can't then do is hurry off to see a hill town and get the best of it. You'll be out by, say, 10am. Then there's 30-45 mins of driving and parking, and a short walk into town. By 11 the heat is rising, and you have no time to linger over a coffee in the bar because the two main churches shut at 12. You get to see one, not the other..and then the shops all shut at 12.30, and by 1pm the place is desolate. Your only local option is to eat, but then again you only had breakfast 3 hours ago..do you see my picture? Let me suggest another way. Have that lie in, that coffee, drink in the view, have the lazy breakfast..and then relax at the house. There's no rush. Sunbathe, swim, read, che vuole (what you want). Have a light lunch at the villa, and be totally at ease. Then, at about 3pm, jump in the car and head to your chosen sight. Arrive at 4pm as the siesta fades and the town recommences business. Now you are in no rush at all, you are in tune with the town and it's own time. Have the coffee. See the churches, which are open till 6.30pm or 7pm. And when you are finished, rather than the difficult and hot closure of lunchtime, now you have the most delightful opportunity of all..to settle down with a Campari Soda (see other posts) or Prosecco in a cafe in the main piazza or street, and watch La Passeggiata build, as the town parades itself before you, whilst the day gets just a little cooler. And finally, you have the choice then of dinner, or of heading home unhurried, relaxed..and because you have been 'topsy-turvy' and very un-British..well, you feel really on holiday!

Have a good lunch

My final advice is a mix of the above two, where you deliberately aim to arrive somewhere at 1pm for lunch. This is perfect if the place is a large town and a bit of a drive to get to. On a practical level, the roads will be quieter and parking easier. The old wisdom has it that a long lunch and a light supper is much better for the stomach, and I'd heartily agree with that. Not only does a long lunch in some easy-going restaurant while away the siesta very nicely thank you, allowing for a couple of courses, a bit of wine, some coffee, a post-prandial wander to size up the town, and no real rush..then sightseeing from 4pm as above. And, that evening when you return home, you won't feel the need to whip up a huge feast, a small snack will do, along with a grappa as you take in the 8.30pm bells.

Likewise, very little to do with my post other than this would be a great holiday snap!